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Aroma has a powerful way of transporting us back in time. At Vannella, I was taken back to Puglia in Italy, where I grew up.
There are places in a city that quietly reveal themselves only to those who take the time to wander. Marrickville in Sydney is one of them. Until recently, I had never properly walked its streets, yet it quickly became clear that this suburb holds a unique kind of energy: one shaped by makers, artisans and passionate food producers.
By 10am the neighbourhood is already in full motion. International flights glide low overhead, while below, workshops buzz with activity, their doors thrown open to the street. The scent of freshly worked wood drifts through the air. And then comes the most comforting smell of all: fresh milk escaping through the doors of Vannella Cheese. Raised in the countryside, in a slower rhythm of life, visiting the local farm was part of everyday living to buy fresh produce directly from the people who made it. There is a certain magic in knowing where your food comes from, especially when it comes to something as timeless as cheese.
New Cheese Discoveries
As I walked through the production space, I noticed shapes and forms of cheese I had never seen before. My mouth was quite literally watering. One of the most striking sights was the layered sheets of golden whey butter. A magical sight of rich, delicate and almost sculptural butter. Churned from 100% of the whey by product from Vannella's daily production, this butter reflects the family's commitment to sustainability by lowering their wastage footprint. Though it is not widely available, it is a special product to get your hands on if you are lucky enough to source some.
Another discovery was pizzarella, a mozzarella specifically designed for pizza. Formed into long logs and intentionally stretched with less water, it melts beautifully while keeping the base crisp rather than soggy.
Then came the buffalo milk Persian feta: heaven in a single word. Silky smooth with a luxuriously creamy texture and a gentle sharpness. Made using fresh milk and live cultures, the curds are gently set and pressed to remove excess whey, leaving behind a dense, unctuous feta that feels both refined and deeply comforting. Also I discovered Persian Feta was actually born in Australia despite its name.
Inside the Vannella factory, the craft of cheesemaking unfolds with tradition and precision. Fresh milk arrives daily from the Riverina region of New South Wales, alongside buffalo milk sourced from Kerang in Victoria. Watching the process from behind the scenes reveals just how much manual care goes into every batch: stirring, stretching and shaping milk into something extraordinary.
Vito Minoia, was already making cheese in Puglia before bringing his knowledge to Australia in 2004, becoming the first to introduce typical Pugliese cheeses such as burrata and stracciatella to Australian shores. Since then, the family has remained dedicated to artisanal production, no mass manufacturing, only patience, skill and respect for tradition just like us at Bottega Terra.
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My visit to Vannella was a reminder that traditions travel, and that true craftsmanship can flourish far from where it began.
The most beautiful moment of my visit came when our Bottega Terra ceramics met Vannella’s creations. Two artisanal worlds, food and craft, coming together through the same Italian heritage, the same respect for tradition and the same love for making things by hand.
Just as Vannella continues a heritage of cheesemaking, we work with families of artisans who have been shaping ceramics for generations in historic Italian towns known for their craftsmanship. Our mission is the same: to honour these traditions and keep them alive.
Since 2004, the Vannella family has remained dedicated to artisanal production, no mass manufacturing, only patience, skill and respect for tradition just like us at Bottega Terra.